Let’s get this out of the way: I didn’t expect Paamiut, Greenland, to be a top-tier travel day. But here we are. Day 5 of the cruise, and I’m officially obsessed—with the town, the ice, and yes… even the bugs (well, almost).
Where Even Is Paamiut?
Paamiut (pronounced bah-moot) is a small coastal town in southern Greenland, hugging the Arctic Circle like it’s trying to keep warm. With a population of around 1,300 people, it’s not exactly bustling—but it is breathtaking. Brightly colored houses dot the hillside like confetti tossed by the wind, surrounded by fjords, icebergs, and enough raw natural beauty to short-circuit your phone’s camera.
48°F, No Wind, and One Million Bugs
Now, 48 degrees Fahrenheit might sound chilly to some of you, but without wind? It felt like a mild spring day… which apparently is the equivalent of bug Mardi Gras.
There were bugs everywhere. Tourists scrambled to buy those unbecoming little bug nets to wear over their heads like desperate beekeepers. But not me. Oh no. I’m a woman of experience. A woman who carries a secret weapon.
Enter: my rechargeable handheld fan—the MVP of my bag in Egypt, Colombia, and now, the Arctic Circle. A few strategic whirls of that breeze machine, and the bugs backed off like I’d sprayed myself in Chanel No. Mosquito.
My New Top 3 Travel Moments (Sorry, Machu Picchu)
Today’s adventure? A 10-person speedboat zipping across the Arctic Ocean at 57 knots per hour in search of humpback whales. I repeat: fifty-seven knots. I thought camping hair didn’t care. Arctic hair don’t GAF!
We soared past icebergs and massive blue glaciers, one of which was hours from flipping over—which I’m told is an event you both want to see and be nowhere near. The color of the ice? Like staring into the soul of a Tiffany’s box. Glacier blue is now my favorite color. And yes, I did almost cry when the crew broke off a piece for us to hold. A million-year-old chunk of ice in my bare hand. I’m not made of stone.
The whale-watching itself? Breathtaking. I’ve done the California ferry-style version (warm breeze, someone selling popcorn), but this was intimate, wild, and a little terrifying. When a creature twice the size of the boat surfaced, I briefly calculated how long I’d survive if we capsized. (Answer: Not long. But what a way to go!)
Reindeer Spring Rolls & Balsamic Battles
Back on land, I treated myself to lunch at Café Tamu, a cozy little spot where I had reindeer spring rolls (delicious) and Greenland cake for dessert. The staff were delightful—even when another table loudly demanded balsamic vinegar for their fish and chips. I swear the tourists looked personally attacked when they were presented with white vinegar. Greenland: zero tolerance for vinegar snobbery.
Hike to the Top of the World
After lunch, I hiked up the town trail, which includes some stairs (and a reminder that I should stretch more) and leads to what feels like the edge of the Earth. Panoramic views of icebergs, the town, and endless fjords—the kind of view that makes you forget to breathe.
Highly recommend. Also recommend catching your breath before you take a selfie. I looked like I’d been chased up the hill by a polar bear.
🛍️ Tapaliks, Beads & Beautiful Things
Back in town, I bought a Tapalik—a traditional Greenlandic amulet worn for protection and strength, often carved from bone or antler. Tapaliks are deeply personal and spiritual, used to connect people with nature, family, and the world around them. Mine will live in my suitcase to protect me from bad travel karma and emotionally unavailable men.
I also fell in love with the local art: intricate beadwork, delicate carvings, and stunning handmade jewelry that made me wish I’d brought a second suitcase and fewer shoes. I wandered into the small museum, admired the local architecture, and spent a few peaceful moments people-watching in the town park—again, saved from bug warfare by my trusty little fan.
Final Thoughts: Paamiut, You Gorgeous Arctic Gem
Paamiut surprised me in the best way. It gave me glacier ice, reindeer appetizers, epic views, whale sightings, kind people, and a serious appreciation for the power of a good fan.
It’s quiet here. Unhurried. Real. The kind of place that doesn’t need to shout to be heard—it just is. And that’s what makes it so unforgettable.
Stay tuned for Day 6… spoiler alert: there may or may not be Vikings involved.
Felicity Arvizu takes on... 