If you had told me a few years ago that I’d spend a Wednesday afternoon eating whale jerky and shopping in the only mall in Greenland, I probably would’ve nodded politely and backed away slowly. And yet—here we are.
Welcome to Nuuk, the capital of Greenland and the literal heartbeat of this icy island. Nuuk is where old-world Inuit tradition meets minimalist Danish design, where the wind slaps you with all the warmth of a scorned ex, and where I ate enough reindeer in one sitting to feel morally conflicted and deeply satisfied.
Let’s dig in, shall we?
Nuuk: A Cold, Colorful Blend
Nuuk has about 19,000 residents and more personality than cities ten times its size. It’s the oldest city in Greenland, founded in 1728 by Danish-Norwegian missionary Hans Egede. And wow, you can feel the layers of history here—Inuit roots, colonial influences, and a vibrant reclamation of indigenous culture.
The city has three official languages: Kalaallisut (Greenlandic), Danish, and English—and don’t worry, they’ll forgive you for butchering all three.
The architecture? A delightful clash of Danish modernism meets Arctic survivalism. Think: clean lines, muted tones, and buildings designed to outwit wind speeds that feel like they’re trying to exfoliate your face from the bone.
The Arctic Winter Games: Olympics, But With Seal Skin Boots
On today’s walking tour, I learned about Nuuk’s big moment on the international stage—hosting the Arctic Winter Games in 2016.
Started in 1970, the games are like the Olympics…if the Olympics were held near the North Pole and included events like two-foot high kick and ear pull (yes, actual events). Athletes come from across the circumpolar north: Alaska, Northern Canada, Greenland, the Sámi regions, and even parts of Russia.
The indigenous games are the real show-stealers. These are ancient, passed-down tests of strength and endurance used to train for survival in brutal conditions. And honestly? Watching a teenager launch themselves straight up into the air using both feet made me question every decision that led me to quitting yoga.
The Cultural Center That Found Its True Calling
We visited Nuuk’s cultural center, originally designed to be a music school… until they realized the acoustics were better suited for yelling into the void than, say, a cello concerto. But what it lacks in sonic perfection, it makes up for in community spirit. Today, it serves as a beloved gathering place for locals—and it’s right next to the only mall in Greenland.
And let me tell you, I did not expect to want everything in that mall. There’s something magical about the blend of Inuit craftsmanship with Danish minimalism—a beautiful balance of practical and elegant. I bought what I could, cried softly at the suitcase limit, and made a vow to return with a second carry-on and a slightly less ethical approach to airline baggage fees.
Kaffemik: My New Favorite Party Format
The real highlight of the day? A kaffemik. What’s a kaffemik, you ask?
It’s a Greenlandic tradition of hosting friends and family at home for coffee, cake, snacks, and storytelling. It can celebrate birthdays, graduations, or, as in my case, just the joy of being in good company. It’s cozy, warm, and so deeply human.
Our host sang traditional songs and played the drum—an act that once would’ve been banned. During the days of Lutheran colonization, music and drumming were suppressed, viewed as “pagan” and “inappropriate.” But today, Greenlanders are reclaiming their musical heritage, and let me tell you, the rhythm goes straight to your soul.
Oh, and the food? Let’s take a moment to honor this spread:
- Crab legs
- Shrimp
- Whale blubber (texture: daring)
- Reindeer sausage, jerky, and kabobs (trifecta!)
- Dried cod
- Caviar
- And whale jerky, because… why not?
It was hands-down my favorite meal of the trip. Was it the entertainment? The community vibe? The fact that the reindeer kabob may have actually flirted with me spiritually? Who’s to say. But I am forever changed.
Temperature: 46°F, Feels Like “Help Me”
Oh, and did I mention the wind? Nuuk taught me a valuable Arctic math equation:
46°F – 30mph wind = HOW IS THIS STILL LEGAL
It felt like 27°F, but at least there were zero bugs—a major upgrade from yesterday’s insect rave in Paamiut.
Final Thoughts: Nuuk’d, Not Shocked
Nuuk is a city of contrasts: tradition and progress, quiet power and cultural rebirth. It’s cold, yes, but the people are warm. The art is stunning. The shopping is dangerous. The food is bold. And the wind? Well, the wind builds character.
I came for a port day. I left wishing I had a second week—and another stomach.
Next stop: Nova Scotia. But first, I’ll be in my cabin… trying to digest whale jerky and gratitude.
Felicity Arvizu takes on... 