If day two of my Tennessee adventure was about whiskey, thunderstorms, and art, day three was all about one thing:
Lookout Mountain.
I’d heard people rave about it, but nothing quite prepared me for just how much there is to see packed onto one mountain. History, geology, Indigenous heritage, breathtaking overlooks, hidden waterfalls, impossible railway climbs, and enough natural beauty to make you stop every few minutes just to soak it all in.
Needless to say, I packed my hiking shoes—and a healthy dose of courage.
Ruby Falls: A Love Story Hidden Underground
My morning began at Ruby Falls, one of Tennessee’s most famous attractions and home to the tallest underground waterfall open to the public in the United States.
The waterfall itself is spectacular, but what fascinated me most was the story of how it was discovered.
In 1928, local cave enthusiast Leo Lambert was determined to reconnect with passages from the historic Lookout Mountain Cave after its entrance had been sealed during railroad construction. Along with a small exploration team, he squeezed through a passage barely 18 inches high, crawling, wriggling, and inching forward through complete darkness for more than six hours.
Six.
Hours.
I became anxious just hearing the story.
I don’t care how beautiful the payoff was—I would have turned around approximately seventeen inches into that crawl.
Claustrophobia and I have a very healthy relationship built on mutual avoidance.
Thankfully, Leo Lambert possessed far more bravery than I ever will.
Eventually, he emerged into a magnificent cavern where a 145-foot waterfall cascaded through the cave. He named it Ruby Falls after his wife, Ruby, and soon transformed the discovery into one of America’s earliest commercial cave attractions.
Nearly a century later, visitors from around the world continue making the underground journey—thankfully through spacious tunnels instead of eighteen-inch crawl spaces.
The cave itself feels almost otherworldly.
Towering stalactites.
Ancient limestone formations.
Crystal-clear pools.
And finally…
The waterfall.
Hidden deep beneath the mountain, illuminated in colorful lights, it almost doesn’t seem real.
Nature never ceases to amaze me.
Rock City: More Than Seven States
Next on the itinerary was Rock City.
I’d seen the famous barns across the South painted with “See Rock City,” and of course I’d heard the claim that on a clear day you can see seven states from the overlook.
I was sold before I even arrived.
What I wasn’t expecting was how wonderfully strange and magical the entire experience would be.
Rock City isn’t just scenic overlooks.
It’s giant ancient rock formations, narrow slot canyons, lush gardens, whimsical pathways, waterfalls, swinging bridges, and enough fairy tale charm to make you feel like you’ve wandered into another world.
One minute you’re squeezing sideways through Fat Man’s Squeeze.
The next you’re crossing a suspension bridge that gently sways hundreds of feet above the valley below.
Then suddenly you’re standing beside High Falls, watching water tumble over massive cliffs before disappearing into the forest below.
And yes…
On a clear day…
You really can see seven states.
Tennessee.
Georgia.
Alabama.
Kentucky.
Virginia.
North Carolina.
South Carolina.
It’s one of those views that photographs simply can’t capture.
The Story Behind Lover’s Leap
One of Rock City’s most famous overlooks is Lover’s Leap, named after a Cherokee legend.
According to the story, Sautee, a Cherokee man, and Nacoochee, the daughter of a rival chief, fell deeply in love despite their tribes’ opposition. Forbidden to marry, the young couple chose to leap from the cliffs together rather than live apart.
Standing there, looking over the valley, I experienced one of those unexpected moments where childhood memories collide with adulthood.
I suddenly remembered singing a campfire song at Girl Scout camp that told the story of two lovers jumping from a mountain.
At the time, it was simply another catchy camp song.
Standing at Lover’s Leap, I realized it had been rooted in a real legend all along.
But that wasn’t the thought that lingered with me.
The deeper sadness came from recognizing that long before Rock City became a beloved tourist attraction, Lookout Mountain was the homeland of the Cherokee people. For generations, these mountains were places of community, ceremony, trade, hunting, and deep spiritual significance.
That connection was violently disrupted by the Indian Removal Act of 1830. Thousands of Cherokee people—including families who called this region home—were forced from their ancestral lands and marched west along what became known as the Trail of Tears. More than 4,000 Cherokee died from disease, starvation, exposure, and exhaustion during the forced relocation.
Standing amid breathtaking beauty while reflecting on such profound loss was sobering.
It’s impossible not to recognize the complicated layers of American history.
The waterfalls are beautiful.
The overlooks are unforgettable.
But beneath every scenic vista are stories that deserve to be remembered.
Travel, at its best, encourages us to admire a place while also understanding the people who loved it long before we arrived.
Fairy Tales Come to Life
After the emotional weight of Lover’s Leap, Rock City surprised me once again with one of its most unexpected attractions.
Fairyland Caverns.
How do I even describe this place?
Imagine someone took every classic fairy tale you grew up with…
Added black lights…
Miniature handcrafted scenes…
Thousands upon thousands of tiny details…
And just enough surrealism to make you wonder whether you’ve stepped into someone’s wonderfully bizarre fever dream.
It’s delightfully weird.
Whimsical.
Nostalgic.
And absolutely worth experiencing.
Whoever designed it clearly possessed an imagination without limits.
The Incline Railway: Absolutely Not What I Expected
Then came the attraction that nearly stopped my heart.
The Lookout Mountain Incline Railway.
Known as one of the steepest passenger railways in the world, it climbs the mountainside on grades reaching nearly 73%. Since opening in 1895, it has carried millions of visitors up and down the mountain while earning the nickname “America’s Most Amazing Mile.”
I wasn’t worried.
At all.
I’ve ridden trains.
I’ve ridden cable cars.
I’ve ridden funiculars.
How different could this be?
It started gently enough.
Smooth.
Relaxing.
Almost charming.
Then…
The mountain reminded us who was in charge.
As the incline suddenly steepened, my heart launched directly into my throat.
Passengers around me gasped.
Someone let out a profanity.
Another person laughed the nervous laugh we all use when we’re questioning our life choices.
We literally began sliding forward in our seats.
I looked out the window and immediately regretted looking out the window.
The view was spectacular.
The angle was…offensive.
Somehow we made it to the top.
Then I remembered a horrifying fact.
I had to go back down.
Thankfully, after spending some time wandering the observation decks and calming my nerves, the descent wasn’t nearly as terrifying because at least I knew what to expect.
Chattanooga’s Sweetest Treat
While recovering from my near-death emotional experience aboard the Incline Railway, I treated myself to one of Chattanooga’s most iconic snacks.
A MoonPie.
Invented in nearby Chattanooga in 1917 by the Chattanooga Bakery, the MoonPie was originally created for hardworking coal miners who wanted an inexpensive, filling snack they could carry into the mines. The combination of marshmallow filling sandwiched between graham cookies and coated in chocolate quickly became an American classic.
Sometimes the best travel souvenirs aren’t things you take home.
Sometimes they’re snacks you eat while calming your nerves after surviving an incline that felt suspiciously close to vertical.
Cooling Off Along the Tennessee River
Back downtown, the Tennessee heat reminded me that July still had plenty to say.
So I joined locals cooling off at The Passage, also known as the Waterfall Steps along Chattanooga’s beautiful Riverwalk.
Children splashed through the water.
Families relaxed along the river.
Cyclists cruised past.
It felt like the entire city had gathered outside to enjoy another perfect summer evening.
The Passage itself is more than a splash pad. It commemorates the Cherokee people’s historic crossing of the Tennessee River before their forced removal, blending public art, flowing water, and remembrance into a meaningful public space.
It was a fitting place to end a day filled with both joy and reflection.
Until Tomorrow, Chattanooga
Chattanooga surprised me.
I expected mountains.
I expected scenic overlooks.
I expected waterfalls.
I didn’t expect to laugh my way through fairy tale caverns, nearly lose my composure on one of the steepest railways in America, or spend so much time reflecting on the people whose stories are woven into this landscape.
That’s the beauty of travel.
The best destinations don’t simply entertain you.
They teach you.
Tomorrow, the adventure continues as I head east toward one of America’s most beloved national parks.
The Great Smoky Mountains are calling.
And yes…
There will be even more mountain driving.
Felicity Arvizu takes on... 